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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So because the slant of the rear window is steep I decided to buy a second dashcam and mount it on the back window.

The power port in the trunk appears to be hard-wired to the battery and is always-on rather than switched. I really don't want to trace any wires and move the load side of that circuit to a switched power source or piggy back on anything. I also didn't want to cut up and do anything with the factory wiring, keep it as factory as possible.

So what I will do is take a cigarette power port extension cord which includes a Male and female end, cut it up, wire it to a VSR battery isolator, then pass the load side to my dashcam's cigarette power cord. This will retain the factory fuse and circuit and only pass power past the VSR (voltage sensitive relay) when the alternator is on and pushing more then 13 voltage on the 12v system. When the voltage drops below 12.8 the VSR will shut off the load side towards the camera.

This is very convoluted in written explanation. Here is a childish drawing:

Rectangle Line Parallel Font Diagram


The end goal is to simply have the dash cam connected to that trunk power but not have it drain the battery down. I'm sure someone with electrical knowledge can tell me there is a much simply way to do this. I looked for a module/circuit that would allow me to set voltage start/stop points, like a fancy digital relay but I didnt find anything that looked useful. This VSR setup is used in the boating world heavily to isolate engine startup batteries from house batteries, where it will only charge the house batteries when the alternator is on and not drain on the startup batteries.

I should get parts in the next few days, I'll build up the modular setup and document the setup and post here. If it doesn't work I'll let yall know as well.

REMINDER: I probably want to do a voltage drop test with the car off and the VSR connected to validate the VSR doesnt cause parasitic loss itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I built this tonight, and in practice this works 100%. One thing I should have known, and that I verified with my scantool is that (i'm so $%#@% stupid) is the body control module will only output 12.5-12.6 volts regardless of the alternator output voltage. This has been true for 30 years and I really should have known this.

It worked on the initial voltage punch, the VSR turned on and the load side energized successfully, then 10 seconds later it cut power as it should since the voltage was below the threshold cutoff.

I'm going to keep this Frankenstein monster on a shelf since really it still has a useful purpose. In fact this would work 100% if I ran a line to the battery directly. I know I must be the only new gen outlander owner experimenting, so pass or fail its still fun.

Here are the images of my failure including the code scan of the body control module voltage, the root cause of my failures.

Gadget Audio equipment Electrical wiring Cable Computer hardware
 

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